C&NW Crandall Cab Conversion Shell $40.00
The C&NW purchased six surplus ex-Union Pacific E8/9-B units (and also some ex UP E9A's) from Amtrak in 1973 for use in Chicago commuter service.
However before that could happen the units needed to be upgraded and since the B units didn't have cabs, Assistant Superintendent of motive power, M.H. Crandall proposed adding a homebuilt cab with control stand.
Thus after upgrading the prime movers to 2400 hp, adding Automatic Train Control, Automatic Train Stop, and replacing the steam generators with Head End Power, these units became know as "Crandall Cabs".
The unusual cab made them stand out but they were not very well liked by train crews account of the cabs being less than air tight resulting in a dusty, wet and cold cab environment.
None the less, they lasted in commuter service until spring of 1983 when they were retired by the railroad.
Basic Crandall Cab Build
Fuel tank not included
Once again Vince Kotnick shared a beautifully kitbashed master model of a C&NW prototype. This time it's the unique Crandall Cab used in Chicago area commuter service. The casting is a direct replacement for a stock Kato E8 body shell. The original window glass needs to be modified slightly (see below) and grab irons will need to be installed along with paint/decals.
The basic build process for the Skytop Models "Crandall Cab" conversion shell is relatively easy since the casting is a direct replacement for the stock Kato E8 body shell. This will get you through the construction phase of the model and leave the final details like painting and decals up to you. You will need to start with a Kato E8 A or B unit. Remove the stock body from the mechanism but take out and save the side window panels.
Clean up the casting by removing any resin flash around the windows and also drilling out the holes for the grab irons with a #80 drill bit. After that is completed, wash the casting in Mineral Spirits in order to remove the mold release compound !
Grab irons are mostly Gold Medal Models #160-66 Hand Grabs for KATO Cab-Type Diesel Locomotives. However there are a few (on the cab nose) that need to be hand formed out of .008 phosphor bronze wire.
Microscale #60-290 C&NW Diesels (1960-1980) decals would be appropriate after painting in your favorite brand of C&NW Yellow and Green paint.
The HEP exhaust mufflers were made from some 22 gauge solid wire. Leave enough of the wire insulation on to simulate the muffler, the bare wire then simulates the piping and can be bent to shape as seen in prototype photos. Paint the piping and muffler silver. The screen over the HEP fans can be cut from some fine wire screen. I happened to find some Plano #477 Winterization Hatch Screen that looked fine enough for the job and I cut it to an approriate size and shape.
The side window glass panels need to be modified slightly in order to fit the nose of the cab. While test fitting the piece in place, you will see where the side window glass will need to be trimmed back a bit. Test fit and trim again if necessary until the window glass seats into the shell properly. The cab windshield and cab side window glass from .010 clear styrene and glued it into place.
Grab irons are mostly Gold Medal Models #160-66 Hand Grabs for KATO Cab-Type Diesel Locomotives. However there are a few (on the cab nose) that need to be hand formed out of .008 phosphor bronze wire.
Microscale #60-290 C&NW Diesels (1960-1980) decals would be appropriate after painting in your favorite brand of C&NW Yellow and Green paint.
The HEP exhaust mufflers were made from some 22 gauge solid wire. Leave enough of the wire insulation on to simulate the muffler, the bare wire then simulates the piping and can be bent to shape as seen in prototype photos. Paint the piping and muffler silver. The screen over the HEP fans can be cut from some fine wire screen. I happened to find some Plano #477 Winterization Hatch Screen that looked fine enough for the job and I cut it to an approriate size and shape.
The side window glass panels need to be modified slightly in order to fit the nose of the cab. While test fitting the piece in place, you will see where the side window glass will need to be trimmed back a bit. Test fit and trim again if necessary until the window glass seats into the shell properly. The cab windshield and cab side window glass from .010 clear styrene and glued it into place.